About this journey
"Xipo: Spend a day in a peaceful mountain village.
Experience the life of mountain villagers and authentic home-cooked mountain cuisine. The village is located high in the valley. Hike to nearby meadows, primeval forests, and pastures, which are relatively traditional and natural. The hike can be short or long, from a village stroll to a deep forest trek. So it is suitable for all ages and fitness levels; don't worry."
Some notes from guests and guides about Xipo: Cangshan West Slope
June 2, 2024, rainy day Xipo valley hiking record
"That day we set out for Xipo, and it happened to rain. 'Walking in the forest on a rainy day is always more comfortable than on a sunny day,' Xiao Chun said. We searched everywhere for wild vegetables and mushrooms. From the mountains, the sound of bells and the cries of lambs came from time to time. When the rain stopped, we reached the pasture for a tea break, spread out food and drinks. In the distance, Lotus Peak was covered with thick clouds. A local elder sister led a mule up the mountain to pick green thorn fruit. A sack of blue fruits, several elder sisters chatting and laughing. For them, this mountain is their life throughout the four seasons: azalea flowers in winter for honey, green thorn fruit in summer for oil, and the mountains full of bracken ferns are their simplest food. Little Ruirui came back from town on the weekend, playing with his balance board in the large yard. This time there were also two little dogs, one called Qian Duoduo, always running behind Ruirui."
When we first entered the mountain, it started to rain; the valley was filled with damp mist.
As soon as we entered the mountain, it started to rain, and the valley was shrouded in mist.
Green ferns covered the flat grassland at the end of the valley.
Some mushrooms grew on dead trees.
On the way
The forest in June was lush. Although there were no azaleas, mushrooms slowly grew in the humid environment, and ferns covered the slopes. We picked some tender shoots to stir-fry with cured pork back home.
An article written by a traveler who went there
Margot: The charming "other side" of Xipo
The hiking part: 200 meters elevation gain, round trip distance 4 km, completed in 3 hours, so it is relatively easy.
This is a household deep in the Xipo valley, on the back side of the Cangshan Ancient City side, 80 km from Dali. Our one-day trip is to go into the mountain to visit them, eat two delicious and simple home-cooked meals, and stroll in the primeval forest and pasture behind the house.
The road uphill: Changing scenery from fields to deep mountains
On the Dali side of Cangshan, the terrain is steep and not suitable for habitation; there are no villages or homes above the slopes. On the west slope of Cangshan,
Along the winding mountain road, passing through villages, in summer passing through tobacco fields and walnut forests, going deeper into the mountains for more than ten kilometers, with streams, fields, and village houses in order. The first time I went there, I felt like I had accidentally entered a paradise.
The farmhouse and mountain cuisine
The farmhouse not only cooks for us but also represents the life of a mountain family. Through conversations and interactions with family members, understanding accumulates over time.
Little Ayang's house is at the end of the valley road. It is a traditional Bai courtyard, with only one household. The courtyard faces the valley, backs onto Cangshan, and below the courtyard are pens for cattle, sheep, pigs, and chickens. Besides the natural ingredients, the food cooked by Little Ayang is delicious. There are pickled vegetables made from high-mountain wild herbs, cured pork prepared for the New Year, fresh vegetables, and soft and glutinous salted meat, giving a feeling that cannot be bought with money. Her husband Hao Ran is also warm-hearted and simple, leading our hiking group to explore nearby paths. Her parents are thoughtful and quiet, always checking if we need anything while eating.
Eating at their home, we feel at ease and comfortable. Sometimes we look at the chickens, ducks, cattle, and sheep around the house, gaze into the valley, and have moments of carefree forgetfulness.
Hiking: Into the primeval forest
Hiking: Entering the primeval forest
After lunch at Little Ayang's, we pass through her wheat fields and vegetable gardens and enter the hillsides and forests, passing by one or two households along the way. There are also wild walnut trees and green plum trees, where you can pick some walnuts and green plums in different seasons. In our daily hikes, we are often used to secondary forests, but suddenly seeing the giant trees and moss of the primeval forest feels like entering another mysterious world. Ancient camellia trees bloom from winter until early spring, still full of flowers in March.
We continue to reach a high mountain pasture, where the village below grazes cattle and sheep. There is a large meadow, and herds of cattle and sheep roam the slopes. There is a cowshed, and a small stream is diverted from the valley. We rest here and have an afternoon tea on the meadow.
We lay down on the grass of the pasture for a while, gazing at the sky.
Picnic afternoon tea on the pasture.
Beehives made by local residents.
The pasture is the end of our hike; from here we return to the farmhouse. When we are almost there, Little Ayang has already prepared dinner.
After dinner, as the sun sets, we start descending the mountain.
General itinerary:
10:00 Depart from Simple Stone Bakery in Dali Ancient City
11:00 Start winding up into the valley
12:00 Lunch at the farmhouse
14:00 Start hiking (humid forest, green pastures)
17:30 Return to the farmhouse
18:30 Depart for return
20:00 Arrive at Ancient City
Photos
