Qi Lin | April · Mangkuan

Qi Lin | April · Mangkuan

Foreword

Two years later, I invited a favorite guest to write again. The text Qi Lin sent back brought the wind of the Nu River, along with our longing for Huang Ping.

Over a month ago, the evening breeze of the Nu River blew. At that time, little Huang Ping was too small, looking up at me, unable to climb onto the rock where I sat.

Wangwang, April 2026

Tonight I received an invitation from Wangwang to write about my feelings from the two-day trip to the Nu River. Coincidentally, after returning to Beijing, I had the same idea, but I lacked the habit of writing things down and didn't know where to start, so I kept putting it off... Finally someone pushed me to do it! Happy!!!

The two days at the Nu River—I think I can't fully express the feelings in writing. You really need to go there, to that place, to have your own feelings. At best, this counts as a travel journal.

Those two days were filled with leisure, spontaneity, and comfort.

The two days felt like walking through half a lifetime of others, and even more so, witnessing it! Grateful to He Chen for creating this route. Just two days and one night, but the itinerary gave you the illusion of blending in with the locals. From food to drink, from the Nu River beach to the hot springs after dark, from Master Zhu Shanshi's private temple to Zheng Chu's coffee drying yard—it was a leap of experiences and full of satisfaction~

After getting off the highway and crossing the Nu River to the town, we opened the car windows, and our skin was the first to sense the mild, humid climate here. Along the way, He Chen gave concise and clear briefings on history, geography, and ethnic customs. Everything you wanted to know about this place, he could pull from his memory and tell you, making you feel like you knew it all too! When we reached the town, he greeted vendors and bought things with familiarity, drifting between snack stalls as if returning to his childhood territory, knowing everything about the place like the back of his hand.

Chili-mixed mango, Jingpo people's sa pa (a traditional dish), banana roti, and Myanmar coffee—all delicious and highly representative. One of the many benefits of joining a two-day trip is that you get randomly matched with travel companions. You eat, drink, and have fun with strangers for two days, and you'll find that even though you didn't know each other before, within half a day you're perfectly on the same wavelength! After eating and drinking our fill, we wandered around the market to check out the stall of the old man He Chen calls an NPC. He's a talkative, cute old man.

If you see something you want to eat, you can try it. He Chen's policy is all-inclusive. If you ask, "What's this? Is it good?" He Chen says, "Want to eat? Buy some!" With him leading the group like that, breaking even is already good luck!

Next, we headed to the beach—the Nu River beach. It's best to wear sandals so you can easily free your feet and feel the fine sand. Sitting on the smooth, large stones piled by the river, enjoying the coolness carried by the river breeze, the agaves growing freely on the cliffs, plus the Yunnan afternoon sunlight of five or six o'clock—everything was just right! Then we continued driving to find a shallow shoal where we could pick up stones. He Chen asked little Zhu and inquired along the way, and we successfully found a very satisfactory spot. Facing the shoal were the Gaoligong Mountains, which we would visit the next day. There were plenty of natural Nu River stones for you to pick, lol. You could take as many as you wanted. I picked a few to take home as tea rest holders. He Chen said some people specifically collect Nu River stones to sell. Thinking they could be sold for money, I felt like I'd hit the jackpot!

We sat cross-legged on the shoal, slowly waiting for the sunset, drinking fruit peel tea in silence, while little Huang Ping slept contently by my side (at that time Huang Ping had already accidentally gone to the stars, but I was still looking forward to traveling with him in the second half of the year). When it got dark, we set off to a farmhouse natural hot spring. I regretted not bringing my swimsuit (He Chen had reminded me, but I was too lazy to buy one), so I only soaked my legs up to the thighs! It was an outdoor natural hot spring, a communal bathhouse for local villagers—so clean, with clear water and a perfect temperature. There were none of those disgusting human skin and metabolic residues you find in city hot springs... No wonder He Chen said you should go to the hot springs after dark. At that time, the temperature of the air and water was just perfect!

After struggling through the night at the inn, morning finally came. Before arriving, I had mentally prepared for the accommodation conditions, and after entering the room, I felt it was better than expected. But once I lay on the bed, I had to admit I was being picky and overly sensitive! This was already the best inn in town that He Chen had selected. People, don't be so greedy. If you want to play, don't ask for too much. I silently scolded myself!

I was deeply moved by Zhu Shanshi and Zheng Chu. On the way up the mountain to Sandie Waterfall, you absolutely must listen to He Chen talk about these two people's stories. Setting aside the scenery around you, their personal charm was enough to attract me all the way to Sandie Waterfall! On the way back to Dali, I eagerly posted a WeChat moment, saying: "From Master Zhu Shanshi's self-built temple at Sandie Waterfall to the coffee garden of Zheng Chu, a 25-year-old woman, traversing the spiritual practices of different generations. A man who returned in midlife to spend the rest of his life building a temple in cultivation, and a 25-year-old woman who is goal-oriented and works hard for it! These two seemingly unrelated people are both cultivating their own fruits on the same high mountain."

If you want a light hike and a slower pace, feel free to try this route. It's different from the fixed-pattern hikes popular nowadays.

The April trip to Dali was my second time specifically for Cangshan Hiking Home. In January 2025, I went to Cangshan with Yanzi to pick pinecones. Since then, whenever I go to Yunnan, even if the place I visit isn't near Dali, I'll make a special trip over! After participating in activities, I gradually got to know Caifeng, Xiaochun, Wangwang, He Chen, Xiaoqi, Xiaomi, and Hanhan. I couldn't help but marvel: how did all these kind, carefree, and interesting people end up together? After every activity, I have to recommend them to my close friends, even if they don't want to listen. I'll talk about it to myself. This Nu River two-day trip was no exception. Sometimes I don't want Cangshan Hiking Home to become too popular (afraid I can't book a spot, lol), but more often I want them to become hugely popular! Let more friends see the shining guides and experience the projects they've carefully discovered and thoroughly explored!

I've rambled on a lot. As I edit the text, I'm also reminiscing. At home, I want to set off for Dali again, but I can no longer see the dedicated little Huang Ping, a qualified guide who, at a young age, successfully kept his job but couldn't control his mouth! May he eat his fill in the stars~

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